Patternmaking For Bridal Necklines

The book “PATTERNMAKING – For Bridal Necklines” has, in principle, the objective of developing studies on the main necklines on the market. Through extensive research on necklines most used in major brands and workshops, several models were created using techniques used in flat pattern making, in modern practices, so that the reader can reproduce, be inspired or study. In it, I present all kinds of pieces, such as strapless, V-necks, curved necklines, off-the-shoulder, one-shoulder, pleated necklines, gathers, spaghetti strap, etc... (.) The most important thing in party wear is the construction of a lining. As it is a tight and often low-cut outfit, the secret of this type of garment is the union of several factors such as: base construction, interpretation, adjustments, structuring, tracing and cutting. For a good result, all steps need to be followed very rigorously. Good pattern-making starts with building a base, recognizing and analyzing the body. In the book, I present two types of bases: the custom-made and the industrial base. The difference from one to the other is that the custom-made base is made on top of the client's measurements, no formula is used and the dart depth calculation is specific to each type of person. The industrial base is built by a table of measurements already established by the industry, using some formulas and calculations to produce this base. Dart volumes are pre-set for all body types. Thus, the industrial base is made from a table of measurements and the custom-made one is built on top of the client's body, respecting their individuality. The studies presented in the book were designed based on Draft's Small size mannequin. All patterns have been tested on the mannequin, but for each body type, there may be a different fit. Thus, in the book, I give the coordinates for the production of the pieces, but, as each body has its specific volumes and shapes, it is necessary to analyze and test. Studies and the way to produce good pieces are presented, but it is up to the reader to adapt the pattern-making to the type of fabric and the type of body for which the pieces will be produced. These studies serve as a starting point for the development of the presented necklines. If you need to reproduce some of these models in a larger or smaller size than the small one, some measurements can be modified to better fit each body type. Pay attention to the bust circumference and neckline. Therefore, I always advise, before cutting into the final fabric, to make a pilot piece in raw cotton or calico.