Bloomsbury The Hidden History of American Fashion: Rediscovering 20th-century Women Designers

This book is the first in-depth exploration of the revolutionary designers who defined American fashion in its emerging years and helped build an industry with global impact, yet who have been largely forgotten. While names such as Charles James, Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein are familiar, their once-eminent forebears have been largely erased from the canon of fashion history in the United States. From one of Americas first couturiers, Jessie Franklin Turner, to Zelda Wynn Valdes, who dressed the likes of Josephine Baker and Ella Fitzgerald, the book captures the lost histories of the luminaries who paved the way in the world of American fashion design. Focusing on unsung female designers, the authors reclaim a place in history for the women who contributed to the rich tapestry of the industry as it stands today, including designers who dressed celebrities and socialites, and millions of fashion-conscious American women. This lavishly illustrated collection takes us from Hollywood to Broadway, from sportswear to sustainable fashion, and explores important crossovers between film, theater, and fashion, including couture, tailoring, millinery, costume, and accessory design. Uncovering fascinating histories of the design pioneers we should know about, the book enlarges the prevailing narrative of fashion history and will be an important reference for fashion students, historians, costume curators, and fashion enthusiasts alike. List of Illustrations List of Contributors Introduction, Nancy Deihl I. Design Innovators 1. Jessie Franklin Turner: An Intimate Affair, Jan Glier Reeder 2. Virginia Woods Bellamy: The Poet as Knitter, Ann W. Braaten and Susan M. Strawn 3. Tina Leser: Global Vision, April Calahan 4. Sandra Garratt: Modular Clothing, Daniel James Cole II. Developing an Industry 5. Marion McCoy and Pauline Fracchia: Mid-20th-century Originators, Jean L. Parsons and Sara B. Marcketti 6. Fira Benenson: The People's Countess, Michael Mamp 7. Helen Lee and Suzanne Godart: Chic For Children, Jennifer Farley Gordon and Sara B. Marcketti 8. Nicki 'Catherine Scott' Ladany: Chicago's Empress of Fashion, Adam MacPharlain 9. Jean Wright: the 'real' Lilli Ann, Hannah Schiff 10. Mollie Parnis: Tastemaker, Annette Becker 11. Elizabeth 'Libby' Payne: Designing for Mrs. Main Street America, Caroline A. Surrarrer and Catherine Amoroso Leslie 12. Ruth Finley's Fashion Calendar, Natalie Nudell III. Hollywood, Broadway, and Seventh Avenue 13. Viola Dimmitt: Los Angeles Entrepreneur, Shelly Foote 14. Kiviette: Star Performer, Dilia López-Gydosh 14. Zelda Wynn Valdes: Uptown Modiste, Nancy Deihl 15. Vicky Tiel: A Couturière in Paris, Lourdes Font Bibliography Index