Edinburgh University Press Fashion and Materialism (Technicities)

A cultural and historical philosophy of fashion in economic and social life from the 1830s to the present dayUlrich Lehmann brings together methods and ideas from social sciences and material production to offer a new political reading of fashion in today's post-democracy. Accessing rare source material across a wide range of European languages and cultures, he offers insight into new working structures in the manufacture of garments and textiles. Reinvigorates materialism as a critical approach to analysing economics, society and media through the thematic focus on fashion as the economically and culturally dominant sector within post-industrial societiesCase studies include the male suit in Alfred Hitchcock's film 'North by Northwest' (1959), the revolutionary production methods in the work of Carol Christian Poell and the innovative textile manufacture of Bonotto in Molvena, north-east ItalyRedirects fashion theory toward materiality and materialism from previous art-historical and social-anthropological approachesExposes the need critically to engage with fashion production, away from the exclusive reading of fashion through its media representationExtends the discussion of fashion production from aspects of labour conditions and sustainability to the materialist critique of the fashion system